Key West

You can fly to Key West – all the major U.S. carriers serve the island – but I suggest you do what we’ve done both times we’ve been there: fly into Miami or Fort Lauderdale, rent a convertible, and drive there.

It’s about 250 km. from Miami, three or four hours along US 1, crossing 42 bridges, the longest being over 10 km. long. The Atlantic Ocean on your left, the Gulf of Mexico on your right, it’s one of the great drives. Stop at the Islamorada Fish Company in (where else?) Islamorada, about half-way. Walk across the white sand, look out at the blue waters of the Gulf, try the conch fritters.

Conch is a marine mollusc (that’s a polite way of saying water snail). White, firm, and flavourful, it’s turned into chowder, salad, fritters, and sandwiches by the locals. You have to try it.

In fact, Key West calls itself the Conch Republic. In 1982, in response to a U.S. Customs closure of US 1 (they were searching for drugs, among other contraband that was widely smuggled into the U.S. via the Keys at the time), Key West declared its independence, promptly surrendered, and asked for foreign aid. They didn’t get the foreign aid, but the resulting publicly got the blockade lifted, and Key West’s motto remains: “We seceded where others failed”. It’s emblematic of the pirate spirit that animates the place.

Harry Truman made Key West the location of the little White House and writers such as Ernest Hemingway and Tennessee Williams have lived and written here.

Trolley and train tours (actually a bus and tractor-pulled cars) do a good job of explaining local history, and there are attractions ranging from an aquarium to a butterfly conservatory to a museum describing the recovery of sunken Spanish treasure in the local waters. You can also take a trip out to snorkel on the nearby reefs or watch the sunset.

Watching the sunset from Mallory Square is a daily ritual and the square attracts not only hundreds of visitors, but also dozens of hawkers and buskers. It’s a must do.

Duval Street is the main street where you’ll find most of the bars, restaurants, and shopping. You can read about some of those in my previous post.

Key West is only about 3 km. by 6 km. Given its small size and idyllic winter weather (daytime highs in the mid-20's), it's popular, and thus expensive. Hotels tend to start at US$300 per day, but you may find lower rates at one of the many B&B's. The weather is hot and humid in the summer and hurricane season lasts into November, but rates are lower then.

There are many good places to eat, especially if you enjoy fresh seafood or Cuban, and plenty of bars. Beer is reasonably priced, but cocktails, at US$10-12 are big-city priced.

Public transit really isn't an option for visitors, but taxis are plentiful, and the drivers are friendly and knowledgeable. The hotels that aren't right downtown offer free shuttles.

Change your latitude; change your attitude. Key West embodies that laid-back Jimmy Buffet spirit. Don't pack dinner clothes; you won't need them. You're always over-dressed in Key West.

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